Pike’s Peak - An Alpine Climbing Photo Journal
The North Face of Pike’s Peak from Rummdoodle Ridge
As the alpine summer season wraps up, I’ve taken some time and reflected back on the adventures I got to have on America’s Mountain this year. Being a recipient of the Pike’s Peak Climbers Alliance(PPCA) Steve Cheney scholarship this year was huge, gaining valuable access, beta, skills, and receiving a very warm welcome into the local climbing community.
Below is a compilation of photos, routes, and a few words from my time on the Peak. I’ve broken it up by area, starting from the Toll Gate to the Summit.
Table of Contents:
Toll Gate to M13 Glen Cove Bigger Bagger The Wall The Sphinx The Moontower Rumdoodle and the Pericle
Zeb’s The Big Buttress Corinthian Column South Cirque Outliers Thank You
Toll Gate to Mile 13
Routes I’ve done:
Passing Lane Crack: 5.10+, 80’ (Top Rope)
PL crack is a burly crack that is slightly overhanging and pushes you back as you try to reach in deep. This would be a tough one on lead as gear you place would get in the way.
Glen Cove
Fairy Tale Wall in Glen Cove, bordered by The Chimney(right) and Three Pigs(left)
Glen Cove appears as you breakout above tree line driving up the highway. It’s home to some great cragging, ski lines, and mixed routes. It is a go to in the winter months, where often the highway is closed past this point. I got to climb and ski in Glen Cove a fair amount over the winter/spring, including laps on Little Italy, some mixed climbing on Fairy Tale Wall, and helping take down the giant American flag hung up on the Gold Wall for 4th of July. Check out my trip report on Beanstalk here. I climbed this one a third time with Beau during an alpine rodeo as well- hoping to get on more of these mixed lines as my technical ability increases this fall and winter.
Routes I’ve done:
The Rocks behind the gift shop: 3rd class to 5.?
Beanstalk: 3+pitches(depending if you take it to the top) M4
Little Abruzi: 1,000’, 5.5?(lots of variations)
Gold Wall: During 4th of July flag takedown
The Chimney: Steep Snow + Ski
Little Italy: Steep Snow + Ski
Bigger Bagger
Routes I’ve done:
Finger Fanger: 5.9, 400’ - One of the best crack climbs around
The Wall
Looking at The Wall, Katana Ridge splits the middle.
Routes I’ve done:
Katana Ridge: 5.10-, 4 pitches
Ribbon Ridge: 5.6, 400’ (not on The Wall Proper, but accessed from the Devil’s Playground Parking
Project: 5.hard
The Sphinx
The Sphinx in all its glory
Routes I’ve done:
The Wildflower Route: 5.10(5.10+), 300’
The Sphinxter: 5.8+, 100’ - This route is mainly hand jams and takes the striking splitter. A walk off/belayed downclimb off to the side makes it a hard one to miss if not in the area.
The Moontower
Routes I’ve done:
Butterfingers: 5.10c, 3 Pitches
Rumdoodle and The Pericle
Routes I’ve done:
Arching Jams: 5.10c, 4 pitches, 500’
Brain Matter Direct: 5.8, 4 pitches
Zeb's
Zeb’s from Rumdoodle
Zeb’s Arete: 5.7+, 7+pitches
Probably the most frequented route on the peak, and a great alpine ramble for various skill levels. This was the first route I ever climbed on the peak back in 2023. As of now, I may possibly have the FKT with a time of 25:09 sheep sign to sheep sign.
The Big Buttress
The Big Buttress
The Big "“Baddy” Buttress features some of the longest technical climbs on the Peak. Zeb’s Arete makes up the skyline above.
Routes I’ve done:
The Gift: 5.11a, 550’
Skullcracker Gully: 5.9++(PG13 for variation), 800’+
Hero Ridge/Sunshine Cracks: 5.10a, 900’
Although not on the Big Buttress proper, I am categorizing Hero Ridge here as you can easily access the base from the rappels.
The Corinthian Coulumn
Routes I’ve done:
Senility Gap(5.9, 2+ pitches)
Toga Party(Attempt during an Alpine Rodeo)
The South Cirque
Purple Bastion on the right, Southern Circus on the left.
Routes I’ve done:
The Harvey Carter Classic, 5.10+, 500’
Outliers
A handful of routes on the Ridge that can be accessed from the Barr Trail. The prominent crack to chimney on the right side looks awesome. I climbed the great 5.9+ hand/fist crack, but then bailed as I did not have big enough (or small enough) gear to protect it. First on my list to get back to next season.
I also climbed a route on the rock formation at the bottom of the Bottomless Pit. Most of the routes look more inspiring from afar, and I eventually walked along and found something worth going up:
Bottom of the Barrel(5.8+, 3 pitches)
Bottom of the Barrel starts on the far left side. Scramble up some 4th class to a nice ledge below the chockstone. Tunnel up the chockstone, get through an offwidth, and then great handjams for another 60 feet until the top of the ridge. At the highpoint, you’ll be right underneath a finger crack. A bouldery move gets you established, then climb the finger crack to another big ledge. Continue up rambly 5.6 to the top. The best way off is to follow the top south to walk off. If you try to get down earlier, it often gets to tricky downclimbing or you get cliffed out.
A Big Thank You
A big thank you to everyone who has contributed to such a great alpine season. First off, all the mentors who have graciously given their time: Phil Wortman, Pete Lardy, Casey Graham, and Jared Reene. Lots of great beta, skill development, and fun days on the Peak.
And all the partners who traded belays, listened to my rants, put wear on their car breaks, and suffered broken feet.
